Welcome to the Carbide Processors Blog
Posted on Friday, August 15th, 2014 at 2:49 pm.
We really do only sell what we think are the finest tools and these super scrapers are no exception. The Super Scraper Tool comes in 3 different sizes and is manufactured in the US. They truly are incredible little tools. They feature a steel scraper body with a carbide tip so that they keep a sharp edge longer and don’t break, chip or dull. The 1- 1/4″ Super Scraper and 2″ Super Scrapers come with a wooden handle and are designed to fit comfortably and give a nice grip. There is also a smaller super Scraper with a 5/8″ width scraper blade for smaller jobs or to fit into tighter places.
We have always admired and thought highly of these super scrapers but did not realize exactly what type of abuse they were capable of taking until just recently. A customer that absolutely loved using his super scraper, which was obvious the minute you saw the scraper, asked if he could send it in to be re-sharpened. He had not actually purchased his Super Scraper from us, but the merchant he had purchased it from refused to help him or have it sharpened. Since we also sell the Super Scrapers, we offered to help.
This 2″ Super Scraper had seen a lot of use and abuse. It looked like the grown up equivalent to a child’s favorite mangeled stuffed comfort toy. It was missing a rivet and the corners had actually just started to round and dull. It took years and a lot of use to get it that way. We offered to just replace the scraper instead of try to sharpen his current one and replace the rivet.
For many of the Super Scrapers we send out, we get a lot of great feedback from the people using them. One happy Super Scraper owner used it to clean up a concrete patch on his neighbors driveway. He had wrote to us and said that “… i don’t think it dulled it one bit.”
Another customer is an auto technician and said he “[uses] it on a daily basis for cleaning cylinder heads and almost any other type of sealing surface.” He said that it worked so well that several other techs in his shop have also bought one.
There is no way we would be able to afford to offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee on these Super Scrapers or be able to replace them even when they were not purchased from us if these Super Scrapers were not as incredible as they are. This is by far the best scraper out there. With a lifetime guarantee and free sharpening for life, this Super Scraper will be the last scraper tool you’ll ever have to buy.
Posted on Friday, August 8th, 2014 at 2:55 pm.
I am excited to share with you some of the highlights from our annual fishing trip to Westport, Washington. In the first picture you can see we had a huge turn-out, apparently we know a lot of friends and business associates who love to fish. In fact LOVE it so much they are willing to show up on a cold, Sunday morning at 4:30 (well, most of us were on time).
Armed with determination, coolers and doughnuts provided by Paul DuClose, we began our all-day adventure aboard the Tequila Too. Captain Ken navigated the choppy waters with ease straight to our destination in the Pacific Ocean. The weather was beautiful, clear and crisp with a mixture of blues and purples on the horizon.
We started off with bottom fishing first….
Followed by salmon fishing…..
And boy did we catch a lot of fish!!!
All in all it was a wonderful opportunity to get out on the ocean, catch up with old friends, enjoy a healthy dose of competition, and agree to do it again next year!
Posted on Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 at 1:55 pm.
Prevent those horrible burn marks in your routed edges my using the following tips!
Keep Your Bits Clean
Get in the habit of cleaning your bits when you are finished with them. I know this is easier said then done; usually when we’re done we just drop them back in their holder and move on with our day. That works well with our schedule, but reeks havoc on our finished work!
Resins and dust build up that cause bits to get hotter faster, making them more likely to burn the wood. If your bits are covered with sawdust, wipe them with a dry cloth. Remove the build-up with a blade-and-bit cleaner.
*Clean bits stay sharp longer because excessive heat breaks down carbide cutters.
Keep Your Bits Sharp
A dull bit not only doesn’t cut well, but also builds up heat, which we are trying to avoid! You can send your bits out to someone who is experienced, or you can do it yourself with sharpening tools, or diamond lapping stones. The information is easy to find and there are videos available on YouTube if you are a visual learner.
*If using a stone, sharpen the flat side only and count the number of strokes so your bit is evenly sharpened.
Check Your Bit Speed
To keep your bits from heating up it is important to keep them running at a consistent speed. If you are unsure of the correct RPMs for your bit, check the chart and adjust accordingly! Also, controlling the feed rate will keep the stock cool and you smiling.
*A slow feed rate generates more heat, use a fast consistent feed rate.
Wood Types create Bit Burns
Maple and cherry burn easily because of their density and the oils they contain. For softwoods like Pine, watch out for pitch pockets; slow the router and increase feed rate to minimize burning.
*Some woods such as oak, don’t easily burn.
When All Else Fails, Fix It
*Using a hand-held utility knife, gently scrap the burn marks off.
*Set the router just a hair deeper and go over the cut again
*Dampen the burn marks with mineral spirits, it will make them sand out easier.
Posted on Tuesday, August 5th, 2014 at 2:14 pm.
I was just told what could have been a horrifying story. Luckily, especially since it was a true story, it did have a happy ending. A young man (Brad) had just bought a new motorcycle to commute back and forth to work in. He said that he purchased a pair of Edge Eyewear Dakura smoke lens glasses to wear while riding his motorcycle. He said he bought them more for looks, but they ended up saving him from losing an eye.
Edge Eyewear makes great looking glasses, but more importantly, they make durable glasses that can really keep your eyes safe when it counts. They are great for motorcycle glasses and just about any other recreational activity. We were recently on a charter boat salmon fishing. The captain was telling us how a deckhand recently lost an eye after a line with a weight on the end snapped back and hit him and how another deckhand had lost an eye nearly the same way the previous year. Even if you are very careful at whatever activity you are doing, you cannot always control what other people around you do. You can, however, control how you prepare for it. Edge eyewear glasses really do look great, but more importantly they can protect you from what you can’t see coming whether you are in the workshop, riding your motorcycle, hunting, fishing, biking, or doing just about any activity.
I now no longer consider Edge Eyewear glasses as strictly safety glasses, but as great motorcycle glasses, hunting glasses, welding glasses etc. They actually have many different designs that have special features for different types of activities. For example, the Edge Eyewear Khor glasses have 3 different interchangeable lenses including a yellow lens designed for hunting, a polarized lens and an anti reflective lens. The frames are made to stay in place even when you are running or sweating, and they have an awesome camo design. They have other designs that are great for motorcycle eyewear and other recreational activities like their Dakura and Zorge designs. There are even some glasses for welding that have special lenses.
Check out the different Edge Eyewear Glasses and take the first step to protecting your eyes from the unexpected.
Posted on Monday, August 4th, 2014 at 3:20 pm.
A common subject that seems to get brought up and sparks a lot of debate in woodworking articles is resawing with a band saw, and more specifically, how to adjust the fence to follow the band saw drift. Everyone seems to have a pretty strong opinion as to what works best.
Band Saw Drift occurs because the differences in set and sharpness for the band saw teeth from one side of the blade to the other side of the band saw blade. Some people believe that heat can also play a role in band saw blade drift. This is due to the front of the band saw expanding more than the back and becomes slightly longer due to the heat caused by the cutting action of the saw teeth in the front of the blade. This can cause the blade to warp and contribute to band saw drift.
When resawing with a band saw, taking band saw drift into account is very important and finding a way to make adjustments so that the drift will not prevent you from getting nice even uniform cuts is imperative. The only thing that all the theories seem to have in common is that saw blade drift can be overcome by making just the right adjustments to the fence.
I found one article that talked about not following the drift at all, but instead overcoming the drift on your band saw or finding ways to compensate for it. They advised to install a stronger blade-tensioning spring on your band saw. Then, to set your saw’s fence square to the band saw blade and clamp the outfeed side to the machines table. Next, they instructed one to install ball-bearing blade guides in your band saw and adjust the blade guides so there is no clearance between the guides and the band saw blade. Last, make a simple jig using a block of wood, a couple nuts a bearing and a hinge for a farm gate. This method seemed to work in his shop, but every shop is different and has different ideas on how to better prevent band saw drift.
Another method of overcoming band saw drift was to make specific adjustments to the fence. First, the band saw must be correctly set up with a proper tension, the band saw blade guides must be accurately adjusted and a good sharp blade must be in place. Measure the drift angle using a bevel square. Once you know the angle, duplicate the angle by using a jig to set your fence to have the same angle. Here is a link to a video that can show you one way to do this.
Posted on Monday, August 4th, 2014 at 11:56 am.
From A to Z, a short glossary of common Drill Bit terms and their meanings. If you are around people who have been in a specific industry for a while you may notice that they use a specific jargon or certain words that are pretty industry specific. For someone that is still pretty new to the tool industry, a lot of those terms may leave one a little puzzled. I took a short glossary of Drill Bit terms and their meanings from Triumph Twist Drills catalog. You can view Triumph Twist Drills full catalog online by clicking on the link.
Drill Bit Axis- The imaginary line that forms the lengthwise Center of a drill bit.
Drill Body- The section of a drill bit from the shank to the outer edges of the cutting edge.
Body Clearance Diameter- The portion of the land that has been cut away so it will not bind against the walls of the hole.
Chip Removal- The ability of a drill bit to pull material that has been cut away from the point, up the flutes of the drill and out of the hole.
Chisel Edge- The edge at the end of the web that connects the cutting tip
Chisel Edge Angle- The angle between the chisel edge and cutting tip, as viewed from the end of the drill bit
Cobalt Steel- A heat-resistant steel that increases the life of the drill bit
Drill Diameter- The diameter over the margins of a drill bit, measured at the point
Feeds- Feed rates for drilling are determined by the drill diameter, machinability of the material and depth of the desired hole. Small drills, harder materials and deeper holes require additional considerations in selecting proper feed rates.
Flute- Groove cut in the body of the drill bit to provide cutting surfaces, permit removal of chips and allow cutting fluid to reach cutting surfaces.
Flute Length- The distance from the outer edges of the cutting tip to the extreme back of the flutes.
Helix Angle- The angle formed between the leading edge of the land and the axis of the drill bit.
High Speed Steel- The high quality steel used in drill bits for most maintenance and industrial applications
IPM- Feed rate in Inches Per Minute. IPS (Inches per Revolution) x RPM (Revolutions per Minute)= IPM
IPR- Inches per second (The feed rate)
Land- The outer portion of the body of the drill bit between two adjacent flutes.
Lip- The cutting edge of a two flute drill bit which extends from the chisel edge to the outer edge.
Neck- The section of reduced diameter between the body and the shank of a drill bit.
Overall Length- The length from the end of the shank to the outer corners of the cutting lip.
Point- The cone-shaped cutting end of a drill bit, made from the ends of the lands and the web.
Point Angle- The angle of the cutting surfaces on a drill point, commonly 118 deg or 135 deg.
RPM- Revolutions Per Minute. RPM= (SFM(Surface Feet per Minute) / Dia) x 3.82
SFM- Surface Feet Per Minute. SFM= RPM x Dia x .26
Shank- The part of the drill bit that is held driven.
Size- Measurement reference for the diameter size of a drill bit. Drill bit size is usually expressed as either fractional, wire, letter or metric.
Speed- The speed of a drill is determined by the rate which the outer edge of the tool rotates in relation to the material being cut. In general, the SFM is within a range based upon the workpiece material, it’s condition, hardness and depth of the hole. The deeper the hole, the greater tendency for more heat to be generated. Speed reduction is often recommended to minimize the amount of heat. It is usually best to start drilling at a slower speed and increase till you reach your optimum Feed speed.
Split Point- A split point drill has a special point configuration that eliminates “walking” so holes stay center.
Posted on Monday, July 21st, 2014 at 1:49 pm.
So why should you use Vortex Solid Carbide spiral tooling, because some of the very unique tool cutting properties. Vortex Solid Carbide spiral tools create the best edge qualities of ANY cutting tool design available. Also, solid carbide router bits produce outstanding edge qualities at the fastest rates possible with any type of routing tools. The following information was taken from the Vortex Tool Company catalog:
- This is a right hand upcut spiral bit with a right hand rotation cut. The upcut spiral will cause the chips to be “augered” upwards during cutting. This is particularly useful in slotting cuts or where chip removal is a problem. Upcut spiral bits have a tendency to “lift” the part in some cases. Additional holding power or stepped cutting depths may be required.
- Solid Carbide upcut spiral bits will leave a smooth cut on the bottom of a thru cut and tend to leave some fuzzing on the top edge in certain materials.
- Upcut spirals straight plunge/drill and have good end cutting geometry.
- A downcut spiral ( right or left hand) will have a downward chip flow that will also help in holding down the stock. The edge quality on the part is smooth on top and tends to be fuzzy on the bottom of certain materials.
- The downward chip flow can sometimes cause clogging problems particularly in a blind slotting situation. Downcut bits tend to preload the routing system and can substantially improve part hold down in marginal routing setup.
- Downcut tools can not be used to plunge straight into wood.
- A compression spiral is designed with upcut and downcut flutes. The upcut and downcut flutes compress the material being cut preventing chipping or fuzzing on the top and bottom of the cut.
- Compression spirals are used extensively for cutting double sided laminates, but can be used on natural woods where edge fuzzing is a problem.
Posted on Wednesday, July 16th, 2014 at 10:17 am.
Cutting Carbon fiber with a Paper Cutter
It can work pretty well.
Paper cutter – decades old and never been sharpened.
Posted on Thursday, July 10th, 2014 at 2:38 pm.
There are many different types of collets and it can be difficult to know which one you need to fit your machine. The easiest way to find what type of collet you need to fit your machine is to measure the length and diameter of the collet. Each Collet series has several different options for inside diameter, so that you can select the right collet to fit your needs and your router.
Take a look at the chart below for a quick reference on which collet you need.
Type of Collet
Collet Diameter (OD)
|ER11 Collet||18mm (.708”)||11.5mm (.45”)|
|ER16 Collet||27.5mm (1.08”)||17mm (.67”)|
|ER20 Collet||31.5mm (1.24”)||21mm (.83”)|
|ER25 Collet||34mm (1.34”)||26mm (1.02”)|
|ER32 Collet||40mm (1.57”)||33mm (1.3”)|
|ER40 Collet||46mm (1.81”)||41mm (1.61”)|
|SYOZ 20 Collet||34mm (134”)||20mm (.78”)|
|SYOZ 25 Collet||52mm (2.06”)||35mm (1.38”)|
|TG 75 Collet||47mm (1.85”)||27mm (1.06”)|
|TG 100 Collet||60mm (2.36”)||35mm (1.38”)|
|SD-20mm-SHODA Collet||52mm (2.06”)||20mm (back side)|
|SD-C001-SHODA Collet||52mm (2.06”)||16mm (back side)|
|SS-22 SHODA Collet||40mm (1.58”)||22.5mm (.89”) OD|
|SD-C015 Collet||52mm (2.06”)||24mm (back side)|
Using the right collet and making sure you check and change your collets regularly can play a critical role in how long your cutting tools last and their performance. Collets are made from a softer metal that have slots in them that allow them to collapse and spring so that they grip the cutting tools tightly. The collapsing and springing causes the collets to wear out, which can cause the tool holders and cutting tools to fail if the collets are not changed. If you find scoring marks on the inside diameter of the collet can indicate that the tool was spinning in the collet and is a big indicator that the collet needs to be changed. Collets should also be changed right away if you find any rust or pit.
When it is time to change those collets, shop with us and find the right collet at a great price. Use the table above to find the right collet and click here to save on the collet you need.
Posted on Monday, June 30th, 2014 at 3:34 pm.
Carbide, you need it now, but you want it at the best price possible, without compromising quality. I hear this phrase almost 5 days a week, not only from our customers, but also from the Carbide Processors Team too!
There is nothing wrong with trying to make a dollar, it’s the American Dream! And as Americans we have the right to the pursuit of happiness; and what better way to achieve that than being able to care for our families, pay the bills and have a little money left over!
As an employee who sells carbide saw tips to friends, Saw Filers, Saw Mills and internet customers, I know how very important the quality of carbide, the pretinning of that carbide and having the correct tip is! The Carbide Processors Team pays absolute attention to quality and size as we weigh and ship expensive carbide tips that could mean a day in the red for a mill, or a complete total shut down.
I am proud to say that I work for a local company whose owner and employees always stand behind his/her work and takes every precautionary step in insuring that our customers know they will receive the correct tip, in a timely fashion with the utmost quality in carbide and pretin.
Every time we receive a carbide stock order we look at each piece to make sure the size is correct. We have received shipments with mixed tips and it is extremely time consuming to separate and measure each tip. Our credibility is extremely important to us as individuals and as a thriving small business.
You can imagine how frustrating it is to receive mixed tips and the amount of accuracy that is involved in counting or sorting them.
The same care is applied when we pretin carbide tips; each piece of braze is methodically placed on each individual tip after it has been coated with our high performance Purified Flux. A steady hand, a pair of tweezers, superior products and uncompromising labor are all you need!
Once the carbide saw tips go through the “oven” and are heated up to about 1500 degrees, most of them go through a chemical wash to clean all the flux off. Once the carbide tips are dry we sort through them to make sure each tip was properly tinned, or to verify that none of the tips are compromised in any way.
The Purified Flux we use for brazing our carbide saw tips have had extra processing steps. These extra steps take the black article out and leave the flux a rich, creamy brown color.
The original idea with flux was that it was to be applied on top of the braze area. No special effort was made to purify the flux because it worked well and most manufacturers wanted to keep costs down.
However the critical part of saw and tool brazing is what goes on inside the braze joint. Ordinary flux is inexpensively made and has up to 10% odd size particles and non-active minerals in it. These odd size particles and non-active minerals get lodged in the braze area and can seriously effect the strength of the braze joint. Purified flux is cleaner, smoother, creamier and much more effective.
As you can see we take the utmost care in providing you with quality carbide saw tips brazed with superior flux and processed by a company who genuinely cares.