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Posted on Tuesday, July 12th, 2016 at 8:52 am.
Mortise and tenon joints are regarded as one of the toughest types of joinery you can use for your woodworking projects. These joints are often associated with fine furniture making due the critical strength and stress resistance as well as quality.
There are several types of mortise and tenon joints, here are a few of them: stopped/blind, through, angled and wedged. All of these different joints are made up of the same parts: a mortise (a recess cut into a piece of wood that accepts a tenon) and a tenon (a tongue at the end of a board that fits into a mortise).
As a rule of thumb, tenons are generally 1/3 the thickness of the work-piece and up to 3″ long. This proportion will help to maximize the shear strength of the tenon without compromising the strength mortise walls. Mortise and tenon joints should interlock snugly without binding. It should be just loose enough to permit a thin, even glue bond along the full joint.
Make sure to cut the mortise first, before the tenon. It is always easier to cut the tenon to match the existing mortise then trying to cut a mortise to fit a tenon. Here are 3 easy ways to make a clean, precise mortise cut.
Cutting a Mortise Using a Drill Press and Chisel
Install a brad point or Forstner drill bit into your drill press with a diameter equal to the planned thickness of the mortise. Make sure to set the depth stop to equal the depth of the mortise. Align the bit with the layout lines at one end of the mortise. Boring on hole at a time, move the work-piece so the holes will be next to or overlapping each other. Continue using this method until you reach the end of the outline.
Using a sharp wood chisel, remove the wood waste to clean and square up the mortise walls. You may need to use several chisels of different sizes to effectively clean out the waste. Using your chisel at an angle will help you control the cut, paring away the waste as you work.
Cutting a Mortise with a Router Table
Choose a straight bit the same diameter as the planned thickness of the mortise. Set the depth and mark the start and end points for the mortise on the face of your work-piece. Holding the work-piece against the fence adjust the stock so one end is resting on the table and the other end is tipped over the bit. Position your work-piece so when it is lowered, the bit will make contact in the mortise area.
Once the router is turned on, lower the stock onto the bit until it is flat on the table. Start to feed it through the bit until the reference line on the board face closer to you lines up with the bit alignment mark closest to you. Feed the work-piece in the opposite direction until you are finished with the cut.
Cutting a Mortise with a Plunge Router
First lay out an outline for the mortise on your work-piece. Fit a straight bit into your plunge router, then attach a guide block to the router base to assure the bit will be centered over the mortise.
Make sure to clamp stop blocks at each end of the cut. Set the depth on the router so the bit will plunge to the mortise depth. With the work-piece secured, plunge the bit into the wood to make the mortise cut. Use a chisel to square the ends of the cut if needed.
Making a mortise cut can be an easy and clean process. The most important rule of thumb is to use quality stock and superior tools for your fine woodworking needs.
Posted on Tuesday, June 21st, 2016 at 1:07 pm.
I don’t know how many times a day I am on the phone with a customer who is looking for a brad point drill bit (threaded & straight shank) adjustable countersink, clamp-on counterbore or mulit-spur forstner drill bit. Always the same basic story- I have this machine, it’s 10 – 30 years old and they don’t make the bits anymore. Can you help me?
One of the requirements of my business degree was to complete Accounting 101 & 102. I can remember the day the professor talked about depreciation. I remember sitting there at my desk thinking how crazy the system of depreciation is! The example used was a meat grinder for a local butcher shop. Although still working and in excellent condition, due to its age, the accounting world deemed it worthless. This particular machine was used daily and very valuable to the store owner and it’s employees.
These bits are still needed and being used by shops, companies and hobbyists. However, the original manufacture went out of business over 3 years ago. To quickly meet the demand for these parts we started offering our custom tooling services. These services include router bits, carbide parts, band-saw blades and custom saw blades. We have outstanding technicians that do their best on making quality, affordable parts. But, custom tooling doesn’t always work for every customer.
We continued our diligent search for a supplier that produced these brad points, forstner bits & counterbores that so many suppliers had stopped making. The hardest part was finding a supplier that could make quality parts consistently. A little over a year ago we were able to find a company that met our expectations and reflected our own “customer is first” moto. This manufacturer focuses on producing the most popular sizes and keeps a full inventory at all times. It has been a positive experience for us and a blessing for those who bought a boring machine at a discount not realizing the parts were no longer being made.
Posted on Tuesday, May 31st, 2016 at 2:43 pm.
You’ve invested a lot in your CNC tooling and cutting tools. You have taken the time and spent the money to ensure that you will have precise tooling you can count on for your production. When it comes to precision tooling, even the slightest deviation in the tools integrity can really make a difference on the end project or the life of your cutting tools. The last thing you would ever want is for your quality toolholders to get damaged, or even worse, lost or stolen. So how do you ensure that your investment of precision CNC toolholders stay safe? Carbide Processors has you covered with a wide range of Huot CNC Tool scoots to keep your CNC holders and cutting tools safe and secure. Whether you have 30, 40 or 50 taper toolholders, HSK 63A or 100A Toolholders or BT Style Toolholders, Huot’s Tool Scoots have tool-holding shelves to fit a large range of toolholder styles.
With so many options, it may be hard to decide which tool scoot is the right one for you. Here is a quick guide to finding the right tool scoot to keep your CNC Tool Holders safe and secure.
The Original Huot Tool Scoot:
This Huot Tool Scoot holds up to 48 toolholders and is built from 16 and 18 gauge cold rolled steel. This tool scoot has 5″ casters that can hold up to 1,000 pound load. And at 75 lbs, it’s light enough to scoot around you shop keeping your toolholders just where you need them. The Huot Tool Scoot has a flat top shelf with lower angled shelf for easy tool access. The shelves feature solid, interlocking side panel construction for maximum strength and stability. This Huot Tool Scoot also features two end storage trays with universal mounting holes for a toolholder vise.
The Huot TriScoot:
The Huot TriScoot holds up to 72 toolholders and is the perfect upgrade if you are looking for just a little more storage. Built with the same 16 and 18 Gauge Cold Rolled Steel as the Tool Scoot, the Huot TriScoot offers the same stability with more Toolholder storage. The TriScoot is built sturdy and tough with 5″ casters that have a load rate of 1,000 pounds. Along with more toolholding power, the TriScoot has 3 flat shelves that can be configured in 8 different positions allowing you to customize the shelf heights to your own personal liking.
The Huot ToolScoot Tree:
The Huot ToolScoot Tree offers even more toolholder storage and more flexibility. Get storage for up to 90 Toolholders and up to 1,600 pounds of load rate on rugged 5″ casters. The ToolScoot Tree has 5 toolholder shelves plus one utility shelf that can be positioned flat or at 20 degree angles. The shelves can also be positioned at various height levels, giving you up to 70 possible options to customize the configuration of your tool scoot. Just like the other Huot Tool Scoots, the ToolScoot Tree is made ruggedly tough from 16 and 18 guage cold rolled steel and weighs 160 pounds.
The Huot SecurityScoot:
For ultimate toolholder safety and security, check out the Huot SecurityScoot. Now you can store, organize, and lock-up your toolholders all in one unit. It is much like the original Huot ToolScoot, but has locking clear poly-carbonate doors on both sides to secure your toolholders. The Huot SecurityScoot holds up to 48 toolholders and has 2 toolholding shelves that can be adjusted to 7 different mounting positions. On top of the SecurityScoot is a utility tray. The SecurityScoot is made from sturdy 16 and 18 gauge steel construction and has 5″ locking casters. Huot Security Doors can be ordered separately and added to any Huot ToolScoot for added security.
The Huot SpeedScoot:
For more easy maneuvering of your toolholders, try Huot’s SpeedyScoot. This lightweight and very mobile Toolholding scoot can hold up to 24 toolholders. It comes with 1 flat top shelf, but has the ability to add more shelves if needed. It’s sturdy and narrow build allows you to move it quickly and easily around your shop. The Huot Speedy Scoot is 15″ wide, built from 18 gauge cold rolled steel, and has 4″ casters that can hold up to 1,000 pound weight load.
For Ultimate heavy duty construction and Maximum toolholding capability, Huot offers the SuperScoot and Ultra Scoot.
The Huot SuperScoot:
The Huot SuperScoot holds up to 90 toolholders on the ruggedly built structure made from 12 gauge cold rolled steel. The 5″ casters can take up to a 1,600 load. The SuperScoot has 2 toolholding shelves that are mounted at 13 degree angles for easier toolholder access and can be configured in up to 8 positions. It’s outrigger design give it improved stability and easier maneuverability.
The Huot UltraScoot:
The Huot UltraScoot is the grand-daddy of tool scoots. Offering storage for up to 176 toolholders, and built from 12 gauge cold rolled steel, you really are getting the ultimate toolholding storage. The UltraScoot features 4 flat shelves that can be configured in 22 possible positions. It also features an extra large side tray. The four swivel and two ridged 6″ x 2″ Casters keep this rugged unit mobile and can hold up to 7,200 pound weight load. For the absolute maximum stability and toolholder storage, the UltraScoot is just the scoot for you.
Posted on Monday, May 23rd, 2016 at 2:40 pm.
Check out our new exclusive 3pc Vortex Spiral Bit Set, #314. You will not find this set anywhere else! This 3pc set includes the top selling, most requested 1/4 shank, spiral upcut, downcut and compression router bits that Vortex makes. Save an additional 10% when you purchase the Vortex 314 versus each router bit individually.
Set Includes the Following:
1230- 1/4″ Cutting Diameter, Cutting Edge Length 7/8″, Shank Diameter 1/4″, Overall Length 2-1/2″
1330-1/4″ Cutting Diameter, Cutting Edge Length 7/8″, Shank Diameter 1/4″, Overall Length 2-1/2″
3112- 1/4″ Cutting Diameter, Cutting Edge Length 7/8″, Shank Diameter 1/4″, Overall Length 3″
Router Bit Information
Vortex 1230 upcut spiral bit will provide a smooth bottom finish, while augering the chips upward. Due to the upcut design and the included angle of the cutting edge, these tools are razor sharp!
Vortex 1330 downcut spiral bit will produce a clean top edge cut of dado type, groove type, or a simple thru-cut. Down-shear bits direct chip flow downward and help hold the part onto the table or pods.
Vortex 3112 compression spiral bit is designed for mortise cuts or cutting 5/8 or thinner material. The 1/4 upcut prevents chipping & fuzzing on top & bottom of the material being cut. Mortise Cuts are grooves cut in the material usually at a depth equal to or slightly less than the diameter of the tool.
*These two flute finishing tools are used when a smooth edge cut is required and is a popular tool design for most routing applications. The helical cutting edge reduces material contact while in the cut. This is why spiral tool designs cut faster, quieter, and cleaner than straight edge tools.
Posted on Monday, May 16th, 2016 at 3:07 pm.
A dado is a square groove that is cut across the grain of a work-piece. Dado joints are used mainly to joint horizontal panels or boards (usually shelves) to vertical panels or boards (usually cabinet sides). The interlocking fit, coupled with the enhanced gluing surface makes the dado joint exceptionally strong. You can make a dado joint using two different methods: router, straight bit & cutting guide or on a table saw using a dado set.
Options for Cutting Dadoes with a Router
-Using the M. Power Edge Guide Kit you can make parallel Dadoes up to 7-1/2 from the board edge. Receive better depth range and control when making your dado cuts.
–Whiteside ranks #1 year after year by Fine Woodworking Magazine for their American made precision router bits. Whiteside is a name trusted by hobbyist and professional woodworker around the world.
Straight Bit & Cutting Guide
A router guide like is needed to make a dado or plow with a straight router bit.
Router Edge Guide
For rough work, sliding attachments that fit onto the router base my be used as a guide. Select a bit with a diameter equal to the desired width of the dado. Make the cut in multiple passes of increasing depth, moving the router left to right.
Cutting Dadoes with a Dado Set
-Popular Tools uses the best quality materials and precise manufacturing to produce high-quality saw blades. Their advanced carbide teeth last longer, stay sharper allowing for the longest life possible for their blades.
-Oshlun offers the best quality for the price in the industry. Fully hardened and surface ground, Oshlun provides quality blades without leaving you wallet empty.
Set the cutting width of your dado blade by adding chippers & spacers between two blades. Mount the set on your table saw arbor. When mounted in a table saw, dado-blade sets require a saw throat plate with and extra-wide opening.
Set the cutting height to the desired depth, then adjust the fence so the blade set will start cutting at the shoulder of the planned dado. Make a test cut first, feeding the stock through the blade slowly, with plenty of downward pressure. For your safety, use a push-block when you near the blade. Measure the dado on the scrap & adjust your set-up as needed.
Use Quality Tools
For the best cuts, longest life and consistency, always use quality tools. Even if your first instinct is to buy what-ever is the cheapest, you will save yourself a lot of time and money buying the best, first.
Posted on Monday, April 18th, 2016 at 12:30 pm.
Now that Spring is finally upon us most of us our looking at our ever growing to-do-lists! We can finally start to tackle those out-door projects we have been neglecting for so long. And, if you have children or grandchildren, chances are a backyard play-set might be on the top of that list.
Even the mention of “backyard play-set” can strike fear into the most experienced of engineers. Think long hot hours of hunting missing parts, quick trips to the hardware store/neighbors/friends for tools, screws etc., reading an encyclopedia sized “booklet” of directions and organizing all 500+ pieces that will ultimately complete your expensive contribution to the children you love.
Well don’t worry anymore! Here are some tips & tricks that will help you put together your shrine of love in the least amount of time possible.
Tools, Tools, Tools
Make sure you have quality tools that will get the job done quickly and make your life easier. An impact driver will come in handy for all the 100’s of screws that are needed to put the play-set together not to mention some play-sets do not come with pre-drilled pieces! The Triton T20ID has a long battery life & delivers up to 2400 RPMS of driving speed. Fitted with 1/4″ hex quick release bit holder allows you to make rapid single-handed bit changes effortlessly.
Impact drivers should be used with good impact bits. The Wiha 7pc Bit Buddy Set will come in handy for all jobs, large and small. Well known for their German quality, Wiha terminator impact bits will deliver 30x the life span of regular screwdriver bits. The Wiha 76892 includes seven of the most wanted sizes: phillips #2, #3, square #2, #3 & torx T20, T25 & T30 impact bits.
Be ready with good drill bits that won’t break! Save time and money with our made in the USA Triumph drill bits. Available in a wide range of applications, you can find the right size for wood, glass, masonry and tile. Buy one or be cautious and have a few on hand ready to go by purchasing a Triumph drill bit set.
Locate, Organize, Proceed
Keep it simple, keep it organized and get done faster. Spending hours in the back yard looking for screw #23 for piece # A is frustrating at best. The best advice I have to alleviate the “treasure hunt” is to put everything in order. Put all the hardware, boards & rails in numerical order in one particular place that is easy to see, and easy to reach. Make sure the impact driver is charged & ready to go as well as any other hand tools required. More importantly, when the inevitable frustration hits, think of all the laughter & hours of fun the children will have from all your hard work. You will be the hero that will get warm, sweaty hugs and lots of sloppy kisses.
Posted on Friday, April 1st, 2016 at 12:50 pm.
We had a wonderful customer the other day in a panic! It was late in the day, and he needed a Tenryu plastic cutting saw blade-PRP-255120AB3 shipped Next Day Air to North Carolina. Our normal cut-off time for shipping is 2pm Eastern Standard time. It was after 2:30 when Whitney received his call. He needed this blade ASAP due to an issue with production and they had no back-ups!
I immediately called the Tenryu warehouse in Kentucky to see what we could do while Whitney processed his information. Without hesitation Tenryu said they would personally drop off the blade to UPS to make sure our customer would be able to receive his blade the next day. Their UPS driver had already stopped by earlier for their pick-up.
It is moments like this we are reminded and thankful for the manufactures that we work with. Tenryu is an excellent example of a manufacture who makes superior saw blades but also reflects our own business motto: The customer is always first.
Tenryu saw blades are known for their quality, super fine cuts and the price isn’t to bad either. Tenryu uses only modern, advanced grades of carbide which provides smoother faster cuts but also up to 10x that of ordinary carbide saw tips. The ATF grind is perfect for more brittle materials like plastic and acrylic. The resin filled expansion slots act as built-in dampeners keeping your cuts quiet!
The customer was so happy he promised to send us a video showing how he uses the Tenryu PRP-255120AB3 on his robots, and gave us permission to use it.
Posted on Wednesday, March 30th, 2016 at 1:42 pm.
Routers produce accurate & predictable results on straight, angled, or circular edges & on inside/outside curves. Routers can do so many things: molding, grooving & rabbeting planes and scratch stocks. The Triton MOF001 & TRA001 routers are perfect for routing shaping profiles. Offered in two sizes, the MOF001 is more compact with a 2 HP motor making it more than capable to handle any job, but light enough for hand-routing. The Triton TRA001 features 3-1/4 HP and has a high range of RPMS: 8,000 – 21,000.
Triton routers are quick to set up, and leave a smooth, professional finish thanks to the variable speed motors. Different materials & techniques require different routing speeds. Although running at top speed gives the best finish for general wood & plastic laminate work, it also has a greater tendency to burn the wood than slower speeds.
Types of Router Bits Needed
For general edge routing the most common shapes you will see are: flush trim, chamfer, roundover & rabbet. Using carbide-tipped router bits versus high speed steel pays off in the long run. High speed steel dulls very quickly and if overheated can lose its temper and become to soft to use. Tungsten carbide tips cut easily through hard materials and stay sharper much longer,especially when used on particle board & plastic laminate. The carbide bits will eventually start to dull, but you can have them professionally sharpened. Carbide Processors offers sharpening services for router bits and saw blades.
Always choose the shortest router bit you can. The longer the cutting edge, the more potentially damaging vibration & deflection the tool suffers. Using the largest diameter shank your router will accommodate will help for similar issues. Use caution when using very large diameter bits for panel raising or shaping thick materials that require slower speeds. At high speeds these bits can cause dangerous kickback, and are subject to severe stress that leads to breakage.
If a piece of a bit breaks off, it can be thrown out with great force. To reduce strain and get a better finish with larger bits, remove as much waste material as possible beforehand by chamfering, using a smaller diameter bit or take multiple shallow passes.
Most often you will get better results if you don’t try to remove all the waste in one pass. It is better to take several shallow cuts instead, lowering the bit a little each time and finishing up with a very light cut to assure a smooth surface.
*Do not change the cutting depth by adjusting the bit shank in the collet. Adjust the router base to set the cutting depth (the Triton plunge route is makes this a lot easier!)
Feed direction is very important when routing. Always feed the router in a direction opposite the way the bit is rotating. Keep a firm grip on the router to maintain control at all times.
As versatile as the portable router is, it can be even more helpful by mounting it upside down in a router table. It then becomes a stationary machine, a small shaper, that can be used with a variety of fences, hold-downs & stops. The large diameter bits previously mentioned are unsafe to use freehand, but secured in a router table they can greatly extend your range of joinery & shaping choices.
Posted on Wednesday, March 23rd, 2016 at 12:11 pm.
The process of rip-cutting is often referred to as cutting parallel to or parallel with the grain. This is true when it comes to solid wood but when ripping plywood you’ll find yourself ripping across the surface grain. Perhaps a better way to describe rip-cutting is- the process of cutting stock to width.
Rip-Cutting Using a Table Saw
The most convenient and accurate way to rip lumber and sheet goods is by using a table saw with a good quality ripping blade. We stock several high quality ripping blades with different tooth configurations for the best cut on your application. Also make sure the rip fence you’re using is parallel to the blade and at a right angle to the table. Squaring up the fence can be tricky due to the poorly made fences that usually come with some table saws that you buy. You might want to strongly consider purchasing a calibrated fence that is more sturdy, adjustable & accurate like the Incra LS-Positioner or the Incra WONDERFENCE. Incra also offers complete joinery systems that include a base mount, rip fence, shop stop, right angle & 51 templates.
Making Rip Cuts
It is a good idea to always make a test cut on a piece of scrap before cutting your stock. Begin by setting the rip fence so the distance between its inner face and the teeth of your saw blade is equal to the width you’re after for your work-piece. Use a rule to set the distance rather than relying on calibration marks on the front of the table. Once the blade is positioned correctly, lock the fence in using the locking handle. Set the blade height so it extends no more than about 1/2 inch above the surface of your work-piece. Make sure you stand to the side of the blade, not directly behind it. This will prevent you from getting hurt if the board gets kicked back when ripping.
Push the board with your right hand while guiding it firmly against the fence with your left. Keep firm control of the work-piece while cutting until it is well past the blade. Once you have finished your pass, turn your saw off to retrieve the board to check the cut you made. Measure the scrap piece to verify it is exactly the right width you need.
*One important point to remember is to never let your fingers get closer than about 6 inches from the blade. Also, never let your hands get directly behind the blade or they could get pulled into it in the event of kickback.*
*Another safety option is to purchase a Micro Jig pushblock. It works somewhat like a feather board plate, holding the cut-off piece in its original position through the entire cutting process.*
To rip a narrow board, use a push stick rather than your hand to feed the board. A featherboard, like Woodpeckers VPFB, clamped to the saw table will press the stock against the fence & allow you to keep your left hand away from the blade. Hold downs like Woodpeckers Knuckleclamp, can be clamped to the rip fence to prevent the stock from bouncing or chattering as you feed it. Make sure featherboards and hold downs are not pressed too tightly against the stock.
Tips & Tricks
- Long boards- Tip the back edge of the board up so it is slightly higher than the saw table. Doing this will press the leading edge of the board down on the saw table. Lower the back edge of the board as the cut progresses.
- Ripping Sheet goods- Full sheets of particle board, plywood or other sheet goods can be ripped effectively using a table saw if you position a sturdy table on the out-feed side of the saw at, or just below the table surface. Some wooodworkers prefer to cut the sheets down to size using a circular or panel cutting saw first.
Not quite sure what the difference is between ripping & crosscutting? For more information read our blog here.
Posted on Thursday, March 10th, 2016 at 11:26 am.
Carbide Processors, Inc. recognizes the importance of mentoring our youth and sharing the knowledge and wisdom that we have. We appreciate the skill, passion and patience it takes for teachers and instructors to pass on their gifts.
That is why Tom has created Tools for Kids, a special grant given annually to programs and schools that partner with children in teaching these valuable skills. This grant allows the recipient to choose any of our items up to $500.00 from our website. Please contact Jo at firstname.lastname@example.org if interested in applying for this special grant.
One example of the influence of this grant is the VEX program at a middle school in Maryland. Elizabeth Dodson describes the VEX program as this:
“The VEX Robotics program, which is a part of the REC Foundation (http://www.roboticseducation.org/), is an incredible program that fosters STEM in the community, inside and outside of schools. The obvious aspects are engineering and programming but it also teaches kids to present their work to adult judges and to learn to communicate with their peers, since the kids have to figure out how to work together (and against each other!) on the competition field.”
We are honored for the 2nd year in a row to sponsor needed items such as hex keys, (like the Bondus 5/64″ hex keys, or the Bondhus 3/32″ hex keys), safety glasses, (Edge Eyewear) and calipers (Oslun digital calipers). The Vex teams’ motto ‘Nothing But Net” helped lead them to the World Championships hosted in April 2016.