Welcome to the Carbide Processors Blog
Posted on Tuesday, September 23rd, 2014 at 3:17 pm.
After you have finished a woodworking project, you may find that you have a lot of left over scrap on your hands. Don’t just toss it out. I have scoured pinterest and other sites in search for great projects and clever uses for that left-over scrap wood. With a little imagination, instead of junk your scrap wood could be your next treasure.
Use your leftover scrap wood and turn it into small projects like planters, bowls, pens, or bud vases. Create beautiful segmented pieces by piecing together many scrap pieces to make a uniquely patterned cutting board, bowl, or art piece. Take a look at some of the projects below and get some inspiration to create your own Scrap wood project. We’d love for you to share your project with us and let us showcase it on our Woodworks page.
If you haven’t purchased a push block (like Micro Jig’s Push Block or 3D Push block), use your old scrap wood for a makeshift push block. Scrap wood is also great for creating jigs. If you have Woodpecker X-Mat System, a piece of scrap wood can be paired with Woodpecker’s X-Mat anchor to create a handy shop-made jig.
Use small pieces and put them together to make beautiful segmented pieces like the cutting board and bowl below. This is great because it allows you to salvage even the smallest pieces scrap and can create really unique looks and patters.
Create tool holders or holders for office supplies and things around the house. Use it to hang tools around your shop, or add hooks and hang keys or coats by the door. Scrap wood can be great for creating things that help you optimize space or organize tools and supplies. See some of the creative ways scrap pieces of wood were used to organize tools and supplies below.
Fasten pieces of scrap wood on the wall and add hoods or nails to hang your tools on. Or add hooks to a piece of scrap wood and hang by the door to use as a key holder.
Try this idea for a pencil holder or make-up brush holder. Use different size drill bits to drill holes into scrap blocks of wood to create a unique holder for all your office supplies or for make-up brushes, etc
If you don’t have quite enough small pieces to create a segmented masterpiece try turning those small pieces into a pen, bud vase, toy blocks or jewelry.
For longer or larger boards, make a handy step stool or planter box. They make great gifts and look great outdoors or indoor. With a little paint and a lot of sanding, you can get creative and make a fun and unique end table.
When it comes to wall art and décor, your imagination is the limit. A little paint and glue and some scrap wood can be used to express your own personal style or create unique gifts for friends and family. Using scrap wood for art projects is a great way to introduce your kids or grandkids to woodworking in a safe and fun way.
Posted on Thursday, September 18th, 2014 at 12:25 pm.
PayPal, you have seen the name on websites, heard that your friend used it to send money to their sister, or may have even seen Paypal as an option to buy something on Facebook. At any rate why has Paypal gotten to be so popular, what is it and why should you be using it?
As an e-commerce business we are always on the look out for secure payment methods that will process quickly and efficiently. Not only for you the customer, but us the retailer.
PayPal is an international, e-commerce business that transfers money in a safe secured way through the Internet for customers and retailers. Your money will transfer quickly and safely to businesses, family, friends, Facebook and utility providers. Or you can enjoy the convenience of having money transferred to your personal account in a matter of minutes!
Here are our Top 10 Reasons for using PayPal:
- It is a universal payment method recognized by retailers everywhere.
- Paypal accepts payments in almost any currency making the service very accessible.
- Online shoppers love the security and convenience of a one-stop payment method.
- It’s free for buyers, there are no fees.
- Paypal offers a line of credit with Low to No Interest to qualifying account holders.
- You can transfer money to anyone at anytime just by using either their email address or their telephone number.
- It’s easy to sign up
- 100% secure, all financial information is kept confidential.
- An immediate payment from your checking account, or any major credit card including Visa, MasterCard, and Discover.
- It’s the Green way to pay; less paper waste.
After reading our “Top 10 Reasons for using PayPal” you can easily see why it is fast becoming the most used and reliable way to transfer money! Safe, secure and reliable, pay for goods and services, or, receive money in the most trusted method available.
Posted on Tuesday, September 9th, 2014 at 3:54 pm.
Saw blades can be a large investment, especially if they are a quality saw blade. It is often hard to bite the bullet and buy a new blade for a project because your cutting a different material or making a different type of cut, but it is worth it.
Different types of saws are designed specifically for the material, machine or the type of cut they are intended for. Different types of carbide grades and different tooth geometries are used depending on the type of cut and material being cut. Even hook angles differ based on the application. All of these things are taken into special consideration and designed to give you the best cut possible and also to help insure the operators safety during the cut for each specific material.
An Aluminum Cutting Saw Blade (or Non Ferrous Saw Blade) will typically have a TCG (Triple Chip Grind) and a negative hook angle. The triple chip grind has a lead tooth that has a double 45 degree angle corner bevel. This is followed by a flat topped raker tooth ground lower than the lead tooth. The raker tooth removes the corners left on both sides by the beveled lead tooth. Triple Chip Grinds combines a balanced cutting force, low tooth drag and free chip flow. This helps to eliminate chipping. The negative degree hook angle allows the blade to cut the material without grabbing into. A saw blade with a positive hook angle would be “bite” into the material more aggressively, which could potentially cause the blade to over feed or break the carbide tips on the blade.
Many Melamine Cutting Saw Blades will have a Hi ATB grind and a negative hook angle. The High ATB grind has a steeper bevel than the standard ATB for chip-free cuts on Melamine and plastic laminate without the use of a scoring blade. The negative hook angle allows the material to be fed into the saw blade easier as opposed to a positive hook angle grabbing at the material. This helps prevent the material from chipping.
Most quality Plastic Cutting Saw Blades will use a special grade of carbide that will help with heat resistance to prevent the material from melting. They most commonly have an ATAF grind, which is great for more brittle materials like plastics and acrylic. With an ATAF grind the tips are ground on the top at an angle and also grind on the face at an angle. When combined into an ATAF (Alternate top –Alternate Face grind) you get a sharper cutting, more pointed edge.
For cutting MDF, Plywood and particle board there are a few more options depending on whether blade life or cut quality is most important. Most Saw blades for Particle Board, MDF, or Plywood will have a positive hook angle to bite into the wood and allow you to feed faster. Which type of grind depends on the cut quality and blade life you want. MDF and particle board contain glue and filler which consists of small particles of cement. These particles and the glue wear down the tips on the blade very fast. Blades with a TCG grind don’t have quite as sharp as a point and will last much longer when cutting MDF or particle board, but will not give you the cleanest cut. For a cleaner cut, you could use a blade with an ATB grind. With an ATB grind the tops of alternating teeth are beveled to one side of the blade or the other at approximately 15 degrees. This creates a sharp point and a sharper cutting edge for better cut quality without chipping or splinters. It also caused the sharp tips to wear much faster.
Posted on Friday, August 29th, 2014 at 2:20 pm.
It is that time once again to run a contest for our loyal friends and customers! We received so much positive feedback and participation from our Free SOG Knife contest we decided to do it again!
This time you could win a $40.00 Woodpecker item for FREE, or take $40.00 off the purchase price of any Woodpecker item. That’s right, save $$$$ on the Woodpecker tool of your choice or get it for FREE! (excludes One-Time-Tools)
But, don’t worry that we will only have 1 Winner, you should know by now that not only do we stand behind our 100% satisfaction guarantee, and offer exceptional tools for the toughest applications, but we are very generous too!
Our 1st Runner Up will receive a $20.00 Carbide Processors, Inc. electronic gift certificate (good towards anything on our website).
The 2nd Runner Up will receive a $15.00 Carbide Processors, Inc. electronic gift certificate (good towards anything on our website).
****The contest starts September 3rd and ends September 10 of 2014****
Enter to win by posting the Woodpecker item you would like to buy with your $$winnings$$ on our Facebook page!!
You can post a comments like:
-I want the Woodpecker WPDPPACK2…
-The Wife said no, but I said yes to the Woodpecker Coping Sled….
-Or my favorite post ” I love Carbide Processors, Inc. ” for those who are undecided.
All 3 Winners will be chosen by the ol’ tried and true, most honest way we know how, drawing out of a hat. We will post a video of the drawing on our YouTube channel. Watch us call out your name for the Grand Prize winner, 1st Runner Up and 2nd Runner up!
If you want to re-live the excitement of our first contest, the Free SOG knife give-away, or to watch how we pick the winners, watch that video here.
If you are one of the lucky winners, email me your contact information at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Posted on Friday, August 15th, 2014 at 2:49 pm.
We really do only sell what we think are the finest tools and these super scrapers are no exception. The Super Scraper Tool comes in 3 different sizes and is manufactured in the US. They truly are incredible little tools. They feature a steel scraper body with a carbide tip so that they keep a sharp edge longer and don’t break, chip or dull. The 1- 1/4″ Super Scraper and 2″ Super Scrapers come with a wooden handle and are designed to fit comfortably and give a nice grip. There is also a smaller super Scraper with a 5/8″ width scraper blade for smaller jobs or to fit into tighter places.
We have always admired and thought highly of these super scrapers but did not realize exactly what type of abuse they were capable of taking until just recently. A customer that absolutely loved using his super scraper, which was obvious the minute you saw the scraper, asked if he could send it in to be re-sharpened. He had not actually purchased his Super Scraper from us, but the merchant he had purchased it from refused to help him or have it sharpened. Since we also sell the Super Scrapers, we offered to help.
This 2″ Super Scraper had seen a lot of use and abuse. It looked like the grown up equivalent to a child’s favorite mangeled stuffed comfort toy. It was missing a rivet and the corners had actually just started to round and dull. It took years and a lot of use to get it that way. We offered to just replace the scraper instead of try to sharpen his current one and replace the rivet.
For many of the Super Scrapers we send out, we get a lot of great feedback from the people using them. One happy Super Scraper owner used it to clean up a concrete patch on his neighbors driveway. He had wrote to us and said that “… i don’t think it dulled it one bit.”
Another customer is an auto technician and said he “[uses] it on a daily basis for cleaning cylinder heads and almost any other type of sealing surface.” He said that it worked so well that several other techs in his shop have also bought one.
There is no way we would be able to afford to offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee on these Super Scrapers or be able to replace them even when they were not purchased from us if these Super Scrapers were not as incredible as they are. This is by far the best scraper out there. With a lifetime guarantee and free sharpening for life, this Super Scraper will be the last scraper tool you’ll ever have to buy.
Posted on Friday, August 8th, 2014 at 2:55 pm.
I am excited to share with you some of the highlights from our annual fishing trip to Westport, Washington. In the first picture you can see we had a huge turn-out, apparently we know a lot of friends and business associates who love to fish. In fact LOVE it so much they are willing to show up on a cold, Sunday morning at 4:30 (well, most of us were on time).
Armed with determination, coolers and doughnuts provided by Paul DuClose, we began our all-day adventure aboard the Tequila Too. Captain Ken navigated the choppy waters with ease straight to our destination in the Pacific Ocean. The weather was beautiful, clear and crisp with a mixture of blues and purples on the horizon.
We started off with bottom fishing first….
Followed by salmon fishing…..
And boy did we catch a lot of fish!!!
All in all it was a wonderful opportunity to get out on the ocean, catch up with old friends, enjoy a healthy dose of competition, and agree to do it again next year!
Posted on Wednesday, August 6th, 2014 at 1:55 pm.
Prevent those horrible burn marks in your routed edges my using the following tips!
Keep Your Bits Clean
Get in the habit of cleaning your bits when you are finished with them. I know this is easier said then done; usually when we’re done we just drop them back in their holder and move on with our day. That works well with our schedule, but reeks havoc on our finished work!
Resins and dust build up that cause bits to get hotter faster, making them more likely to burn the wood. If your bits are covered with sawdust, wipe them with a dry cloth. Remove the build-up with a blade-and-bit cleaner.
*Clean bits stay sharp longer because excessive heat breaks down carbide cutters.
Keep Your Bits Sharp
A dull bit not only doesn’t cut well, but also builds up heat, which we are trying to avoid! You can send your bits out to someone who is experienced, or you can do it yourself with sharpening tools, or diamond lapping stones. The information is easy to find and there are videos available on YouTube if you are a visual learner.
*If using a stone, sharpen the flat side only and count the number of strokes so your bit is evenly sharpened.
Check Your Bit Speed
To keep your bits from heating up it is important to keep them running at a consistent speed. If you are unsure of the correct RPMs for your bit, check the chart and adjust accordingly! Also, controlling the feed rate will keep the stock cool and you smiling.
*A slow feed rate generates more heat, use a fast consistent feed rate.
Wood Types create Bit Burns
Maple and cherry burn easily because of their density and the oils they contain. For softwoods like Pine, watch out for pitch pockets; slow the router and increase feed rate to minimize burning.
*Some woods such as oak, don’t easily burn.
When All Else Fails, Fix It
*Using a hand-held utility knife, gently scrap the burn marks off.
*Set the router just a hair deeper and go over the cut again
*Dampen the burn marks with mineral spirits, it will make them sand out easier.
Posted on Tuesday, August 5th, 2014 at 2:14 pm.
I was just told what could have been a horrifying story. Luckily, especially since it was a true story, it did have a happy ending. A young man (Brad) had just bought a new motorcycle to commute back and forth to work in. He said that he purchased a pair of Edge Eyewear Dakura smoke lens glasses to wear while riding his motorcycle. He said he bought them more for looks, but they ended up saving him from losing an eye.
Edge Eyewear makes great looking glasses, but more importantly, they make durable glasses that can really keep your eyes safe when it counts. They are great for motorcycle glasses and just about any other recreational activity. We were recently on a charter boat salmon fishing. The captain was telling us how a deckhand recently lost an eye after a line with a weight on the end snapped back and hit him and how another deckhand had lost an eye nearly the same way the previous year. Even if you are very careful at whatever activity you are doing, you cannot always control what other people around you do. You can, however, control how you prepare for it. Edge eyewear glasses really do look great, but more importantly they can protect you from what you can’t see coming whether you are in the workshop, riding your motorcycle, hunting, fishing, biking, or doing just about any activity.
I now no longer consider Edge Eyewear glasses as strictly safety glasses, but as great motorcycle glasses, hunting glasses, welding glasses etc. They actually have many different designs that have special features for different types of activities. For example, the Edge Eyewear Khor glasses have 3 different interchangeable lenses including a yellow lens designed for hunting, a polarized lens and an anti reflective lens. The frames are made to stay in place even when you are running or sweating, and they have an awesome camo design. They have other designs that are great for motorcycle eyewear and other recreational activities like their Dakura and Zorge designs. There are even some glasses for welding that have special lenses.
Check out the different Edge Eyewear Glasses and take the first step to protecting your eyes from the unexpected.
Posted on Monday, August 4th, 2014 at 3:20 pm.
A common subject that seems to get brought up and sparks a lot of debate in woodworking articles is resawing with a band saw, and more specifically, how to adjust the fence to follow the band saw drift. Everyone seems to have a pretty strong opinion as to what works best.
Band Saw Drift occurs because the differences in set and sharpness for the band saw teeth from one side of the blade to the other side of the band saw blade. Some people believe that heat can also play a role in band saw blade drift. This is due to the front of the band saw expanding more than the back and becomes slightly longer due to the heat caused by the cutting action of the saw teeth in the front of the blade. This can cause the blade to warp and contribute to band saw drift.
When resawing with a band saw, taking band saw drift into account is very important and finding a way to make adjustments so that the drift will not prevent you from getting nice even uniform cuts is imperative. The only thing that all the theories seem to have in common is that saw blade drift can be overcome by making just the right adjustments to the fence.
I found one article that talked about not following the drift at all, but instead overcoming the drift on your band saw or finding ways to compensate for it. They advised to install a stronger blade-tensioning spring on your band saw. Then, to set your saw’s fence square to the band saw blade and clamp the outfeed side to the machines table. Next, they instructed one to install ball-bearing blade guides in your band saw and adjust the blade guides so there is no clearance between the guides and the band saw blade. Last, make a simple jig using a block of wood, a couple nuts a bearing and a hinge for a farm gate. This method seemed to work in his shop, but every shop is different and has different ideas on how to better prevent band saw drift.
Another method of overcoming band saw drift was to make specific adjustments to the fence. First, the band saw must be correctly set up with a proper tension, the band saw blade guides must be accurately adjusted and a good sharp blade must be in place. Measure the drift angle using a bevel square. Once you know the angle, duplicate the angle by using a jig to set your fence to have the same angle. Here is a link to a video that can show you one way to do this.
Posted on Monday, August 4th, 2014 at 11:56 am.
From A to Z, a short glossary of common Drill Bit terms and their meanings. If you are around people who have been in a specific industry for a while you may notice that they use a specific jargon or certain words that are pretty industry specific. For someone that is still pretty new to the tool industry, a lot of those terms may leave one a little puzzled. I took a short glossary of Drill Bit terms and their meanings from Triumph Twist Drills catalog. You can view Triumph Twist Drills full catalog online by clicking on the link.
Drill Bit Axis- The imaginary line that forms the lengthwise Center of a drill bit.
Drill Body- The section of a drill bit from the shank to the outer edges of the cutting edge.
Body Clearance Diameter- The portion of the land that has been cut away so it will not bind against the walls of the hole.
Chip Removal- The ability of a drill bit to pull material that has been cut away from the point, up the flutes of the drill and out of the hole.
Chisel Edge- The edge at the end of the web that connects the cutting tip
Chisel Edge Angle- The angle between the chisel edge and cutting tip, as viewed from the end of the drill bit
Cobalt Steel- A heat-resistant steel that increases the life of the drill bit
Drill Diameter- The diameter over the margins of a drill bit, measured at the point
Feeds- Feed rates for drilling are determined by the drill diameter, machinability of the material and depth of the desired hole. Small drills, harder materials and deeper holes require additional considerations in selecting proper feed rates.
Flute- Groove cut in the body of the drill bit to provide cutting surfaces, permit removal of chips and allow cutting fluid to reach cutting surfaces.
Flute Length- The distance from the outer edges of the cutting tip to the extreme back of the flutes.
Helix Angle- The angle formed between the leading edge of the land and the axis of the drill bit.
High Speed Steel- The high quality steel used in drill bits for most maintenance and industrial applications
IPM- Feed rate in Inches Per Minute. IPS (Inches per Revolution) x RPM (Revolutions per Minute)= IPM
IPR- Inches per second (The feed rate)
Land- The outer portion of the body of the drill bit between two adjacent flutes.
Lip- The cutting edge of a two flute drill bit which extends from the chisel edge to the outer edge.
Neck- The section of reduced diameter between the body and the shank of a drill bit.
Overall Length- The length from the end of the shank to the outer corners of the cutting lip.
Point- The cone-shaped cutting end of a drill bit, made from the ends of the lands and the web.
Point Angle- The angle of the cutting surfaces on a drill point, commonly 118 deg or 135 deg.
RPM- Revolutions Per Minute. RPM= (SFM(Surface Feet per Minute) / Dia) x 3.82
SFM- Surface Feet Per Minute. SFM= RPM x Dia x .26
Shank- The part of the drill bit that is held driven.
Size- Measurement reference for the diameter size of a drill bit. Drill bit size is usually expressed as either fractional, wire, letter or metric.
Speed- The speed of a drill is determined by the rate which the outer edge of the tool rotates in relation to the material being cut. In general, the SFM is within a range based upon the workpiece material, it’s condition, hardness and depth of the hole. The deeper the hole, the greater tendency for more heat to be generated. Speed reduction is often recommended to minimize the amount of heat. It is usually best to start drilling at a slower speed and increase till you reach your optimum Feed speed.
Split Point- A split point drill has a special point configuration that eliminates “walking” so holes stay center.